Farewell ocean.....My love.

I just left the ocean 3 days ago. And I miss it. More than anything. After having the opportunity to spend the most time I've ever spent so close the ocean this winter it makes me want it more. I need it my life much more. Badly. Spending everyday for a month in Bali in saltwater, then just being near the ocean in japan and then California and catching a few waves there. Its feels like home to me now. While I still have intense love for the mountains, that love will still burn for the mountain summer and fishing but come winter, the ocean is where I need to be. Warm or cold. I just want the salt water to sting my eyes and drip from my nose. The feeling of the cold ocean flushing through my wetsuit as I duck dive a wave. The sight of the sun setting as your trying sneak a few more toe rides before its pitch black out. If it were as easy as snapping fingers and all my personal possessions (except my surfboards) got sold and turned to money I would be gone. Living in a tent, or in my board bag, Catching waves, catcha fire. And be in the presence of the calming place that is the ocean. But for the time being I'm In for another planting season which I'm incredibly excited for, then another guiding season which I also cant wait for. Then Light hanging will be the cherry on top. You cant really go wrong with spreading Christmas joy. Anyways here a few pics from my last night on the ocean. Cant wait to go back.
Hope everyone is enjoying life and most importantly. Loving it.





Jah RavenComment